Help Wanted: Must Love Wine, Compassion a Plus
by Eric Asimov, 11/22/2006
“It’s not just really talented, well-educated, eloquent people who are passionate about wine,” said John Ragan, the wine director at Eleven Madison Park in New York, “but also warm, unpretentious people who can convey that passion without uncomfortability. They’re both really different skill sets.”
What separates a barely competent sommelier from a great sommelier, Mr. Johnnes said, is his intuition as much as his knowledge. “It’s connecting with people,” he said, “being a bit of a psychoanalyst, knowing what their budget is, what they like.”
But too many sommeliers try to educate the world about what they like, or recite all they know, like a rock guitar soloist who doesn’t know how to leave space between the notes.
It’s a fine line between offering just enough intrigue to build interest in a new and unusual wine, and becoming a crashing bore.
“How do you get people who just don’t spout off what they know, the bookish side of wine?” Ms. Singh said. “You can memorize the ‘Oxford Companion to Wine,’ but do you have the personal skills?”